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From some quick searching, the P0179 is an electrical circuit issue with the fuel composition sensor. You may want to check all connectors for any burnt pins or green crusties on the connector pins. It could be a bad fuel composition sensor. I did find a service bulletin for 2013 Caprices that covered a replacement fuel composition sensor for 10 years or 150,000 miles. Here's the link to that document. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10093776-0335.pdf

At purchase you get 1-year of included updates (free first year subscription) to the diagnostic and maintenance modules. OBD functionality is enabled with or without a subscription. If you want to continue to use the diagnostic or maintenance modules beyond the first year, you must pay for a subscription (one year at a time). The bi-directional features are part of the diagnostic/maintenance modules so you must have an active subscription for those to work.

Glad it helped!

I did have a camera outside of the car, but the video footage was corrupt when I downloaded it, so I could not show the headliners being passed through the right rear door opening. At 2:20 in the video, I mention that I removed the old headliner and inserted the replacement headliner through the right rear door. I would suggest lowering the front seat backs to allow for more maneuvering room for the headliner.

I use the default exposure setting of zero. No CPL filter was used. I state whether a CPL filter was used in the text overlay I placed in the video examples. In the status line of the full screen videos, I show the firmware version along with a "C0". "C" is for CPL and "0" means no CPL a "1" would mean a CPL was installed.

You are welcome!

No, I do not have a video for replacing the rear fender liners.

I cannot say that I've observed that behavior with my S500.

Ohhh i guess is around shingle springs….

The first two are in Shingle Springs, CA and the last one is in El Dorado Hills, CA

@@RetroCarGuy530 👌

There have been two updates for the E1 since I released this video. I have not retested the night video noise issue since the review. E1_VT-EDA191 2024-01-24 1. Added a 2560x1440P 60FPS option; note that HDR is not supported in this mode. When turn off loop recording, the maximum recording time for each video segment is 12 minutes. 2. Added a collision detection activation mode with two options: power-saving mode (default) and quick start mode. 3. Modified loop recording time, changing the original 5-minute option to 2 minutes. 4. Added daylight saving time and standard time functions. 5. Added time display format options: 12-hour and 24-hour formats. 6. Added APP display of voice command content, compatible with the new APP, displaying voice recognition content on the APP. 7. Added APP remote control commands, matching the new APP, with options to display the remote control's on/off settings on the APP. 8. Added APP OTA commands, matching the new APP, enabling OTA upgrade functionality. 9. Adapted to new batches of G-Sensors. 10. Default system time updated to January 1, 2024. E1_VT-ECD201 2023-04-23 1. Added HDR timer function; 2. Updated display driver to fix the issue of distortion on high-temperature screens.

Glad it helped!

The system setting "Mirror Mode" only governs the user interface presentation on the screen. I just checked my S500, running firmware v1.1.23ww, and the rear camera view presented on the screen is presented just as if you were looking in the mirror glass without the screen on (movement on the left rear of the vehicle appears on the left side of the image on the screen). The recorded video is presented in the reverse orientation (movement on the left side of the vehicle is on the right side of the recorded video). The mirror view will [should] present license plates in reverse order just like a standard center rear view mirror will do. If it presented a reversed video image on the screen, movement of the vehicle (side-to-side) would be presented in the opposite direction potentially causing some disorientation to the driver which is used to having the motion in the center rear view mirror follow the motion of the car (side-to-side).

@@RetroCarGuy530 thanks for taking the time to explain, this is my first dashcam and I considered it because of your very detailed review. So far its realy nice, the rear can be more clearer ( I opted to mount it inside and bought an adaptor for a sturdier installation), I guess it is better to mount it outside but the headlights at night is just so distracting as per other reviews mounting the backup camera outside

All firmware updates before v1.3, must be downloaded from the VIOFO website support page for the specific dash camera model. You copy the firmware file to the root directory of the memory card’s file system. To avoid problems, VIOFO recommends using a memory card with a FAT32 file system so the dash camera boot loader is able to see the firmware file on the memory card.

Thank you!

There are a couple of different trains of thought on this topic of using a fuse tap to obtain power for a new device/accessory. What I demonstrate in this video is the "in parallel" approach of routing the power through the fuse tap. The power obtained from the fuse box fuse socket is directly routed to both the lower and upper fuse sockets in the fuse tap. There's another approach which would be labeled "in series" power routing approach. That's where the power from the fuse box fuse socket goes up the right leg of the fuse tap, through the lower fuse in the fuse tap and then down the left leg of the fuse tap to the original fuse box fuse socket and it also goes then up to the fuse tap's upper fuse socket. All of the power load runs through the lower fuse in the fuse tap. Which approach is best to use will result in spirited discussion/debates. The "in series" power routing method can be seen as the absolute safest approach, but it may also lead to blowing the original fuse in the lower fuse tap fuse socket since both power loads are being run through the lower fuse. For dash cameras, radar detectors and similar power demanding devices (usually 2 amps and very often dash cameras use less than 1 amp), the "in parallel" power routing approach is very safe. It will only be adding 2 or often less than 1 amp to the circuit that is supplying the power to the fuse box fuse socket. I have another video that tries to explain the "in parallel" approach a little more in depth. ua-cam.com/video/YNc0FfeL6rw/v-deo.html

I might be able to create a video with the updated settings in the soon to be released v1.3 firmware for the A229 Pro. In my A229 Pro/Plus review video, I include my power consumption test results for the A229 Pro and A229 Plus dash cameras. Here's a link to the power consumption data in my review video: ua-cam.com/video/ywcJ4_1cL9E/v-deo.html

@@RetroCarGuy530 Awesome, thank you! I'll watch it!

You may want to take a look at a VIOFO blog post about the v1.3 beta firmware which contains descriptions of several of the new features in v1.3. viofo.com/blog/firmware-updates-viofo-a229-pro-a229-plus-version-v13-beta-b119.html

I have not a full formal review video beyond my quick overview video for the VS1. I have posted the power consumption information in a post in my VS1 thread on the DashCamTalk website. It shows the power consumption for all of the operating modes of the VS1. dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/viofo-vs1-testing-review-rcg.50417/post-612534

You could use the bearing press kit that I used to press in the wheel hub into the bearing to extract the old bearing. You would need to use the appropriately sized plate on the back side of the bearing small enough to fit inside of the ring in the bearing hole. A cup from the kit that would rest on the outer lip of the knuckle so the when the bearing is pressed from the back side it will pull it into the cup on the front side of the knuckle. The other approach would be to use a bench press with the appropriately size plate from the bearing press kit to allow the bench press to press out the bearing. The bearing press kit that I used is an Orion Motor Tech kit and I purchased it from Amazon. amzn.to/4ciaHXl

@@RetroCarGuy530 I recommend to anyone attempting this to source as many new parts as possible as in the video. I just did the bearing on my 2012. Worst one I have ever done. I live in the desert and everything was stuck tight. I can't imagine doing this in the rust belt. Removing the axle from the hub required the puller shown in the video and a Dewalt impact gun on high. It just barely removed it. The slide hammer would not remove the hub, it was easier to leave it partially attached to the car and beat it out from the back. Use a sledge hammer, its stuck tight and will probably destroy the old bearing on the way out. You cant press it out with the brake backing plate still on, there is no way to hold it on the press. Once the hub was knocked out it still had the outer bearing race stuck on it. A bearing separator would not grab it. I heated it orange with a torch and got it halfway off with a chisel. After that I tried a bearing puller for differential bearings with an impact gun, still stuck tight. Eventually I cut it off. I then had to put the hub in the lathe to polish the shaft surface for install. Buy a new hub if you can find one, its worth it. With the hub out you can get the backing plate and e-brake off and press out the bearing. It took everything my 20 ton press had to remove it. Pressing in the new bearing also took full force from the press. Put the hub in the freezer overnight before you re-install, it will slip into the new bearing and not damage it from force. Use the impact to pull the axle back into the hub. The one time use axle nuts are unavailable from most parts sources, if you are careful they can be reused with some red Loctite and a punch. This video did give me all the steps for the project, but I wish I had more new parts. Unfortunately parts availability for these cars is difficult. I no longer have a vibration from the axle. Just need to align it now. Runs straight and fast. FYI: The local GM dealer to me quoted a very non committed $1100 per side for the bearing job and was having trouble finding the parts.

If the fuse socket you want to use can truly supply the 5 to 6 amps required by the PowerCell 8 while charging in low amp charging mode, then that approach can work. The longer charge time when charging at the "Low" setting is something you'll need to see if that fits into your driving habits. If the battery pack does not get charged fully, you'll need to supplement the charging of the battery pack by using an external charger. If you're already planning on charging it at home with a charger, then the "Low" charge mode can work for you. You just need to be consistent in your process of charging it out of the vehicle to make sure your PowerCell 8 doesn't run low on power when you park your vehicle. The charger you would use at home needs to capable of providing 14V to make sure the battery maintenance system in the PowerCell 8 allows it to be charged. I've tested the 14.2V 8 amp charger that BBMC sells or a DC power supply that can be set to charge at 14.2V up to 10 amps could be used to charge the PowerCell 8 at home. An AC to DC power brick that outputs only 12V is not sufficient to charge the PowerCell 8.

@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks soo much for your swift response. I really appreciate. When you tested the 14.2V 8amps been sold by BBMC. Was it okay for proper charging and functioning of the battery? Thank you

I misstated the voltage it produces. It outputs 14.6V at up to 8 amps. I've used that charger successfully several times to charge a PowerCell 8 battery pack. I discuss my testing of that charger in this DashCamTalk website post: dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/7500-mah-96-wh-blackboxmycar-powercell-8-blackvue-b-130x-thinkware-ivolt-xtra-bab-95.48162/post-592288

@@RetroCarGuy530 Thanks so much 💯 👍

Hello @RetroCarGuy530 Please I need your professional guide. I just installed this battery pack today in my brand new 2024 Rav. Based on our previous conversation, my PC8 was fully recharged indoor with the external charger, which was really cool. Some of my concerns are 1) From different reviews have seen on hardwiring dashcam to fuse box using a fuse spot preoccupied, it was mentioned that the introduced fuse should be equal or less than the OEM (preexisting fuse in the spot). But surprisingly, watching the PC8 installation process on BLACKBOXMYCAR, it was said that the introduced fuse should be equal or higher than the OEM Please I need your professional clarification on that, as I don't want to mess anything up in my brand new car fuse box. 2) On my rav 4 fuse box diagram, I found two empty spots. The 2 spots fuse capacity was not stated (no info on either it is 5, 7.5, 10 etc). Furthermore it was stated that only designated spot should be used. Is it okay to make use of one of those 2 spots for my accessory point for the PC8?

I'm no AC expert, but a couple simple checks come to mind. Make sure the compressor clutch is engaging when the AC is turned on. If the clutch is working, I would suggest a shop that can check/charge the AC check the low side and high side pressures while it's operating to make sure the AC compressor is actually doing its job.

You're welcome!

If those fuse box fuse sockets are labeled as "SPARE" then they should not be supplying power to any circuit/device in your car. You should be able to remove the fuse in that socket and discard it (or store it elsewhere as a spare fuse) and only put a low amp fuse (2 to 5 amp) in the upper fuse socket of the fuse tap to provide power to the dash camera.

I'm not aware of being able to change the navigation region for a specific vehicle. The navigation equipment can be specific to a region of the world where the vehicle was first sold. It would be best to check with an authorized service center in your area.

@@RetroCarGuy530 i already visited but they are not ready to take anything related to US specs

I'm glad it was helpful!

The first thing to check is make sure the power source you're using to power the dash camera truly has power. If using the cigarette lighter adapter (CLA), make sure the CLA truly has power. If using the VIOFO HK4 hardwire kit, make sure the red wire is connected to a constant power source and the yellow is connected to a switched/accessory power source and the black (ground) is connect to a good body ground (metal with no paint). Make sure the fuse box fuses/fuse tap fuses are all good (not blown). If the USB-C power connector is plugged into the GPS module, make sure the dash camera is correctly installed on the tabs on the GPS module (not partially slid onto them or only half of them). As a test, you could place the USB-C power connector into the "rear camera" USB-C port on the front camera and see if it powers up. If it does, you might have a bad GPS module/mount.

Yes, that's how you would perform that function. I just recently did that exact thing with my NOCO Genius 10 and my 2014 Chevy Caprice to replace its battery. You could also connect the NOCO to the jump start terminals instead of the battery terminal leads. Just make sure the two cables don't come in contact with each other while the battery is being replaced.

@@RetroCarGuy530 Perfect, thank you!